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Home // Featured // DIY: 350Z Brembo Brakes Conversion for Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-t / GTS / GTS-4 & Silvia S13 / S14 / S15

DIY: 350Z Brembo Brakes Conversion for Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-t / GTS / GTS-4 & Silvia S13 / S14 / S15

Been to a few track days, cycled through different pads and still not stopping down the main straight like you should? Either she goes on a diet and loses her interior, audio equipment, sound deadening and extra bolts/nuts/cabling OR you could just buy her a birthday present. Hmmmmmmmm I think Brembo brakes are the perfect present!

There are actually a few big brake upgrade options for the R33 GTS/-t/4 depending on your budget. Ranging from the simple but overpriced set from a R33/34 GT-R (noting that R34 GT-R requires enlarging to 14mm holes on the spindle) to an off the shelf #yolomode Alcon kit to an Alpha Omega Racing’s Evolution Brembo kit OR to what I simply did and just buy a set of Brembo brakes off a 350Z Track Edition! Yes you heard right, 350Z Brembo brakes fit and they fit very well indeed!

So certain forums say it can’t be done, whilst others say it can be done and at the end of the day that’s all hearsay. I’ve actually made them fit without too much fuss, so if you’re still reading I’m sure you’re needing some lush, golden goodness on your floating barge *cough* R33 Skyline too.

Another bonus, these brake upgrade also suits S13 / S14 / S15 Silvias!

Brembo 350Z R33_01
(Left) 296mm OEM Sumitomo vs (Right) 324mm 350Z Brembo
Tools Required:

  • Jack & Jack Stands
  • 10mm & 14mm Flare Nut Spanner
  • 12mm & 19mm Socket
  • Torque wrench
  • Pliers
  • Angle Grinder with Flap Disc
  • Drill with 14mm Drill Bit

Parts Required:

  • 350Z Front Brembo Calipers from Track Edition
  • 350Z Front Brembo Rotors (324mm x 30mm)
  • 350Z Compatible Brakes Pads, we recommend Intima SR or Type-D Pads located in our shop [Click Here!]
  • 4x R34 GT-t Caliper Bolts (M14x1.25) & Washers (350Z ones are too long also the shoulder is too long, R33 ones are too small being M10x1.25)
  • Braided Brake Lines (Optional, but Recommended, original brake lines can be used)
Brembo 350Z R33_02
(Left) 350Z Bolts, way too long (Right) Factory R33, too small
Duration: 2 to 3 Hours
Difficulty: Low to Medium
Profanity Level: Low (High if you’ve realised the R33 bolts don’t work and you didn’t buy the R34 bolts)

Here goes!

Step 1:
Jack up the front of your floating barge *cough* I mean car and secure them on jack stands. If you have an electric or air impact wrench then remove your front wheels and place them under your car for added safety. If you don’t have an impact wrench, then I should mention that there’s a Step 0 and that’s to crack your wheel nuts before you jack up your car.

Brembo 350Z R33_03

Step 2:
To ease neck cramping and spasms, I suggest you turn your steering wheel full lock to the side you’re upgrading first. If you’re upgrading the right brake caliper then full lock to the right! Now unclip the brake lines, then proceed to remove that bracket held in by 2x 12mm bolts.

Brembo 350Z R33_09

Step 3:
Time to get serious, remove the 2x 19mm bolts holding the caliper to the upright aka spindle. Once removed you may be required to push back the pads a little in order to move the caliper off. Once off, rest caliper with brake lines on a secure spot being either the lower control arm or a milk crate or a random bucket.

Brembo 350Z R33_08

Step 4:
Yes the point of no return, if you decided to chicken out on the brake upgrade STOP NOW! If you’re destined for Brembo brakes, keep reading. Whip out that drill and that 14mm drill bit and go to town, I mean enlarge the existing 12mm bolt holes with finesse using plenty of lubricants or cutting fluid. Because the trak-life.com garage is so well equipped, I used WD40. Try not to make the hole any bigger than it needs to be, if you’re not confident in doing this I suggest remove the entire spindle then using a drill press.

Brembo 350Z R33_04

Brembo 350Z R33_10

Step 5:
Yes the point of no return of the point of no return, because the rotors are larger this also means the dust shield or fry pan at the back will interfere with the 324mm rotor. Most people opt to delete this entire shield, but I decided there’s a purpose to this so decided to trim off the lip. Using a flap disc on your favourite angle grinder, proceed to trim off the fold and create a flush surface, test fitting the rotor at this point will ensure nothing is touching.

Brembo 350Z R33_05

Brembo 350Z R33_06

Brembo 350Z R33_07

Step 6:
Fit your braided lines and secure to your 350Z Brembo caliper to make your life easier

Brembo 350Z R33_11

Step 7:
Clean your wheel hub, then slide on your 350Z Brembo rotor and attach a wheel nut to hold it in place. Then, install your 350Z Brembo caliper using the 2x R34 GT-t brake bolts (M14x.1.25) with a 19mm socket, noting the correct caliper side has the bleed nipples pointing upwards. Torque it to about 120nm using your favourite torque wrench, I have chosen a slightly higher torque setting, most recommend 100nm however using bigger M14 bolts it doesn’t hurt to go a little more.

Brembo 350Z R33_12

Step 8:
Time to crack off your old brake lines from the body using your 10mm flare nut spanner and quickly attach the new brake line. Ensure it is firmly in place.

Step 9:
Install the brake line bracket using a 12mm socket and clip on the new brake line to the bracket

Step 10:
Install brake pads of choice (Brembo brake pad install article coming soon!)

Step 11:
Repeat on other side

Step 12:
Using a 11mm spanner, bleed the front brakes, make sure you bleed them very well. Being Brembo brakes, you will need to bleed both sides of the caliper (yes there are 2x bleed nipples). I also suggest bleeding the ABS pump as well if you’ve lost heaps of brake fluid from fumbling around with the brake lines. Top up your reservoir as needed.

Step 13:
Fit on your wheels, admire your new upgrade calipers and rotors then lower your car off the jack stands.

Brembo 350Z R33_13

Step 14:
Go for a gentle drive and bed in your brakes according to the bed-in procedures for your brake pads of choice.

Hooray! Brembo life is upon you! Hope you’ve found this guide easy to follow and I hope your floating barge now is able to stop sufficiently on the race track without you falling into the sand trap each time. I forgot to mention, when you stop at the lights and the guy next to you has those Brembo caliper fascias stuck on his calipers you can thank yourself you’ve done the right thing by going real Brembo calipers and that your not supporting that junk that has the potential to fall off, jam into the wheel and cause an accident.

You now, are an ambassador for real brakes and real stopping power!

About Johnny

Johnny
A typical car nutter that likes to get his hands dirty. Skyline and Silvia fanatic not to mention trak-life's own personal tuner and mechanic. Doesn't mind sparing a few days at the gym to stay fit and definitely likes to eat to keep the balance right.

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17 comments

  1. Awesome guide, It’s good to see people going to the effort for 33’s – I don’t see much like this on SAU anymore. Thank you

  2. How much do Z33 brake setups go for? How viable are Evo VIII setups?

    • Johnny

      Really depends, I was fortunate to get front and rears for $1000 off ebay. Because the rears were not usable, I sold them off so the fronts only set me back $650.

      In terms of Evo calipers and rotors you need to factor in dog legs which don’t come cheap. Some may appear cheaper however may distort with heat cycles and cause braking issues.

  3. How much difference in stopping power did you see? Was it worth the effort and money? How did it compare with before?

    • Johnny

      Day and night difference, more so in terms of pedal feel and also fade. Before I would start experiencing brake fade after 3 to 4 hot laps at Wakefield, after the upgrade I was going past 6 till the tyres gave way instead!

  4. I would recommend ditching the dust shield, its main purpose (apart from shielding dust) is keeping the brake rotor hot by not allowing any airflow past it. No serious track weapon should be running brake dust shields. The other bonus is a reduction in unsprung weight.

    Great website by the way. Keep up the good work.

    • Johnny

      Hi Jamie, thanks for your support! Sounds like a good idea, might delete that item when we tackle through front bearings after the next track day.

      Fridge might be off road for a bit of time after September, might overhaul many parts. The poor chassis has over 350000km on it, although the dash says 155xxxkm.

  5. Awesome DIY, just wondering what brake lines you used? I am looking at doing this diy to my s14.

    Cheers.

  6. Another good write up Johnny. If you only used the fronts 350z Brembo’s do you need a brake bias or do these brembos work well with the factory rear r33 setup ?

    • Johnny

      Thanks for your kind words ๐Ÿ™‚
      In terms of the bias, I find it’s well balanced, I am not getting any rear lock on hard braking on the track and the pedal feel is very progressive (which I like). I don’t like overly sensitive brakes, however some people do. The car is happily stopping from ~197km/h to 60km/h to make turn 2 of Wakefield with ease!

  7. Hey, awesome guide!! Just a quick question, what length are the caliper bolts? There’s so much cross information out there about the brembos being 1.5 pitch or 1.25 pitch and I’m struggling to find the right bolts :-/ so hoping I can just order some correctly sized high tensile bolts

    • Hi..thanks for the detailed info. Bought a set of used 350z rotors and brembo callipers today to fit to an S13. Tim raises a good question and it would help tremendously if you could give us the length of the M14 bolts please.

    • Johnny

      Hey Tim,

      Best option is to get R34 GT-t OEM bolts as they have the 10mm shoulder area that doesn’t have a thread. Nissan will have these and they are a perfect fit on the conversion.

      • Hi Johnny,

        had a chat with the nissan dealers today and they were somewhat clueless (apparently working on a jap import and wanting parts for my car that aren’t for my car in order to fit parts from another car to my car means they won’t help!)

        ANYWAY, I was just wondering if you had the ability to confirm that the bolt I need is Nissan Part Number 41000A or 41005AA000

        I’ll probably order some anyway and just send them back if they’re wrong, but if you clarify that’d be even better ๐Ÿ™‚

      • Johnny

        Hi Tim!

        41005AA000 seems like the correct part number, however best to make sure it’s 14mm in size. I actually went to a wrecker and pulled mine off a R34 GT-t thus was able to get the correct bolts/washers. Most of the diagrams online are quite vague with mis-matched diagrams vs. part numbers.

        If you’re in Australia, maybe try reach out to TAARKS or Kudosmotorsports.

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