If your car see’s the track regularly or you simply want to stare at a cool “SR20” logo when you’re rolling around underneath your car then installing a GReddy sump (or oil pan) is for you.
It’s that extra bit of security when you’re going full out on the track since it provides extra oil capacity and maintains oil in a central location when loading on those serious corner Gs. And it’s a lot tougher than the factory sump in case you run over a wombat.
This is one of the first mods I actually should have installed for peace of mind… but it’s never too late so here’s a simply guide for you on how to get it all on!
Tools required: Socket/Ratchet tool set, RTV gasket sealant, long allen key set, philips & flathead screwdriver, blade scraper.
Technical Difficulty: Easy
Profanity Level: Medium
Duration: 2 hours
- Jack your car onto stands and drain the oil via the 14mm drain plug.
- Unbolt the 10 x 12mm bolts going into the sump in this order as per FSM:
- Now for the most time consuming part, separating the sump from the upper oil pan/front cover. There won’t be an gaps apparent yet because the gasket sealant is doing it’s job so it will need some massaging. My drive belts were disconnected so I had space to “lightly” tap on the outer lip with a screwdriver and hammer from up top. If you don’t have any space from up top there’s no other choice but to try and pry it delicately with a thin flat head screwdriver (unless you have the special tool as per the FSM which most of us don’t).
It’s pretty tempting to jam the flat head (or chisel) in and yank it up and down but slow and steady will get you there. Remember you don’t want to damage the upper pan surface area otherwise you’ll run the risk of creating gaps where oil will weep through.
- Keep prying away gracefully at the front from edge to edge until you can get the flat head in deep enough for leverage to break the sealant on the sides (and hear nice crackling noises).
- Note that the sump will still be half full with oil so make sure you support it when it is coming off. Otherwise make sure you have plenty of degreaser ready!
The upper oil pan will still be dripping oil too so just leave it underneath.
- Remove the 7 x 12mm bolts holding the baffle plate in, just easier so you have more room to work with when removing the old gasket sealant (this is an optional step, however highly recommended that it is performed).
- Inspect your oil pickup and strainer to check it’s in good order and not clogged with debris.
- Proceed with scraping off the old sealant with a scraper, remember to get it off around the bolt holes too!
- Use some brake cleaner (or equivalent) to remove any last grime and give it a nice finish. You want all the sealant goo gone and a nice smooth flat finish.
- Lie there and admire your work, be proud of what you do!
- Don’t forget to pop the baffle plate back in!
- With your new sump, screw in the plates and check for any dirt/grime and clean accordingly.
- Plug in the temp sensor hole with the supplied grub screw if you’re not using it. You can also plug in the sump bolt if that’s handy.
- Screw in the two plates inside the sump.
- Test fit the sump to ensure there are no obstructions, if there are you’ll have to relocate whatever it is (my oil filter sandwich plate was in the way… BIG SIGH).
- Time to get that new RTV sealant on. I used the Genuine Nissan Gasket sealant just because, Permatex grey will also do the job.
- Apply into the grooves and around the inside of the bolt holes as shown on the GReddy installation manual.
- Before you whack it in, ensure you have the correct allen keys handy and have inserted the locking washers on the supplied bolts; saves you fumbling around when one hand is tied up holding the sump in place. You may also want a trolley jack nearby to help you hold it up “just in case”.
- Line up your new sump and try and get it in the right position first go.
- Pop in some bolts on opposite sides to keep it in place. Don’t completely tighten them yet until all bolts are in, the longer ones can be tough to thread in if sump isn’t positioned correctly.
- Once all bolts have been threaded in, proceed tightening them all in a criss-cross pattern.
- Don’t forget the sump plug if you haven’t done so already.
- Leave this for a few hours for the sealant to become fully effective then fill her up with oil and check for leaks.
- Go for a spin to get the oil temp up to normal operating temperature and then check for any leaks. If there are leaks then you’ll need to repeat the process as either there’s not enough sealant, surfaces aren’t flush enough or you didn’t clean the surface correctly or it’s not tightened correctly. Hopefully you won’t need to do this though!
There you have it, a simple and functional mod to your car in preparation for those high adrenaline track days… or RNP runs…