Ever looked underneath your car and realised that the OEM castor rod bushing’s are cracked and leaking some oil residue? Well you’re not alone – you my friend have suffered from castor rod bush death just like all the other Nissan Silvia, Skyline or Stagea owners!
Nissan castor rods have a pressed liquid filled bush which was designed to reduce road noise and improve ride comfort. The drawback of this design is reduced steering input and introducing a small element of castor angle change on hard braking. No major issues though as it’s all pretty standard even in other vehicles bar one thing, Nissan castor rods leak, and when they leak they turn into a pile of useless goo and your once sharp handling car now feels like a taxi (pun not intended).
So now comes the question, why do they all seem to leak? Factor in the nature of rubber which will deteriorate over time and Japan’s climate that tends to exacerbate the entire process, the result is the liquid inside oozing out and making a mess of your car (not to mention the degradation in handling).
Not to fear, time to replace them with some nice Hardrace spherical bearing adjustable castor rods!
These aren’t just your boring OEM style replacement castor rod though, these are adjustable meaning you’re able to play around with the castor angle and not to mention they use spherical bearings – meaning there won’t be any compliance which is a good and bad thing depending on what you’re after. But #becauseracecar who cares about road noise, so let’s get cracking!
- Hardrace Castor Rods Part# HR-6619H
For this guide, I will be using “The Fridge” – R33 GTS-t Series II Skyline.
- Jack stands & jack
- WD40 (optional)
- 17mm Socket & Wrench
- 12mm Spanner
Duration: 45 minutes
Profanity Level: Medium
Jack up your trophy car, and make sure those jack stands are even and secure
Apply a little bit of WD40 and using a 17mm socket & socket wrench, remove the front 17mm nut/bolt and the rear 2x 17mm nuts holding the castor rods
Remove the anti-roll bar links using a 12mm spanner if they are in the way of removing the castor rods, most cases this isn’t mandatory but does make the entire process much easier.
Pre-adjust the castor rods off the vehicle to roughly the same length as the existing one (to avoid significant steering changes until you’re ready for a wheel alignment)
Install & tighten up castor rods then attach the anti roll bar end links
Tighten up the castor rod locking nuts
You’re done! Time to take it for a quick spin and admire the difference in steering feel. Once you’re ready, get the car to an alignment shop and dial in some more castor and reap the benefits of the added adjustment. Tell us what improvements were made after you changed yours, comment below!