Friday , October 29 2021
Home // The Garage // DIY: HICAS Delete with HICAS Eliminator Kit

DIY: HICAS Delete with HICAS Eliminator Kit

HICAS. Seemingly a good idea in theory, not so good on the real world tarmac. As a result, the chances of finding an aftermarket HICAS lock out bar on any Nissan equipped with this controversial technology is almost guaranteed.

Yet even with a HICAS lock out bar installed, does your car still feel a little sloppy around corners and isn’t hugging the ground as if it were on rails?

Hang on, wasn’t that the whole point of the HICAS lock out bar???

There’s still a high chance your HICAS system is playing up even with an installed HICAS lock bar as unfortunately it still relies on the factory HICAS components installed to keep things in place.
These components are:
1. The ball joints on either side that attach to the tie rod ends
2. The tie rod ends themselves
3. The tie rods
4. Lastly, the lock bar itself (if not mounted correctly)

All these things contribute to a bad Nissan experience and we don’t want that, so enough of the blabber let’s get to it!



  • Jack stands & jack
  • WD40 (optional)
  • 15mm, 17 mm Socket & Wrench
  • Ball Joint Remover
  • Angle Grinder & Cutting Disc
  • Gloves, Safety Goggles & Ear Muffs
  • G-Clamp

Duration: 120 minutes
Prerequisite: Installed a HICAS Lock out bar
Difficulty: Medium
Profanity Level: High

Step 1:
Jack up your trophy car, and make sure those jack stands are even and secure. I prefer to jack it up from the rear diff as it is quite strong then remove wheels.

Step 2:
Remove your HICAS Lock Bar and Tie Rod Ends from the subframe and rear uprights.

HICAS y 01

Step 3:
List your HICAS Lock Bar, Tie Rods & Tie Rod ends on either Facebook car groups OR eBay.

Step 4:
Consume a beer or maybe two, as you’ll need it! (please keep under the legal limit so you don’t get drunk and hurt yourself)

Step 5:
Using your angle grinder with the appropriate cutting disc, chop off the exposed bits of the ball joint completely. Make sure it’s cut right up to the upright or else you’ll struggle pressing it out. Repeat for both sides




Step 6:
Remove the strut, by undoing the 17mm bolt. We need to remove this so there’s enough room for the ball joint remover to work.

Step 7:
Setup ball joint remover with the correct cup so that you’re pushing the remainder of the ball joint towards the front of the car.





Step 8:
Work it baby! It’s going to be super tough wrenching it. I needed to use a 1 metre extension bar on my trusty Sidchrome ratchet – I suggest you use a breaker bar if your ratchet isn’t that strong.






Step 9:
Clean the insides of where the ball joint once lived.


Step 10:
Press in rubber bushing using G-Clamp & Wood. Please apply WD40 so it doesn’t snag.

Step 11:
Fit eliminator ends to subframe, followed by toe arms then to where the new bush lives.




Step 12:
Check, then tighten all bolts.

Step 13:
Reassemble the shock, then you’re pretty much done.

Step 14:                            
Fit wheels, then get a wheel alignment!


So there you have it, no more HICAS lock bar, no more HICAS ball joints going loose and no more wobbly HICAS toe rods – because we all know a band aid solution is just a band aid solution. Tell us what you think, comment below!

About Johnny

A typical car nutter that likes to get his hands dirty. Skyline and Silvia fanatic not to mention trak-life's own personal tuner and mechanic. Doesn't mind sparing a few days at the gym to stay fit and definitely likes to eat to keep the balance right.

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  1. Does anything locate the inner toe arm brackets apart from friction? It seems a good hit or loose bolt would cause huge toe changes. I wish those two brackets were replaced replaced with a single full-width unit.

    • Johnny

      both bolts that go into that bracket actually locate with holes on the subframe, I initially thought the same thing till I examined how it was installed and took a guess that the bolt holding the inner end of the tie rod actually connected to the sub frame, which I was right!

  2. Is this kit from Japtek or a different brand? And how is it holding up 5 months later?

    • Johnny

      Hi there! It’s actually the TAS Autosports one, which I believe comes from the same factory as the Japtek ones. Still good, has been to 2x track days and both times I’ve spun off the track and hasn’t broken ‘yet’.

  3. Did this today, so thanks for the guide, it was a big help.

    Some additional tips for anyone else doing this…

    When pressing out the ball joint make sure you remove the circlip which is attached to the back of it. If you don’t you will never get the joint out and spend a lot of energy trying (like I did)

    Also use plenty of penetrating oil to help get it out (and the new bush in), and like above try to cut it off flush to the knuckle to make it easier to press out.

    Also, you will use a fu*k load of energy pressing these in and out, so eats your corn flakes.

    Rather than a 1m long breaker bar, I used a half meter long one to much greater effect. Under the car you don’t have enough room to swing the 1m bar, so you’re wasting your time.

    When pressing the new bush in consider grinding around it to make the diameter smaller. I didn’t on the first one and could only get it in 80% of the way before giving up (the arms lined up and connected fin so it was ok). On the second bush I ground it away and was about to press it in tightly 100%.

    Also the bush comes with lips on each end (fu*k knows why) making it impossible to press in without cutting one ends lip off. I used a dremel tool to do this.

    Also my kit didn’t fit properly on one of the mounts so I had to grind it back and paint to make it fit.

    And lastly Im completely exhausted as this took around 6 hours. You’ve been warned.

    • Johnny

      Wow, thanks for the tips! I cheated a little bit (not mentioned in guide) but I cut the poly bush in half with a razor and pushed them in either side, followed by the metal sleeve last with the help of loads of WD40.

  4. Awesome tutorial, just finished installing a driftworks hicas emliminator and followed this guide. The ball joints went out suprisingly easy in my case.

    Thanks for the write up!

  5. You don’t need to cut or modify the new bushing at all. The tip I have for installing new ones is to put them in the freezer the night before. They will contract a little in size. Then, heat up the hub assembly. Add lots of lube, and she’ll go right in. Leave the lips alone on the new bushing, please.

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