HICAS. Seemingly a good idea in theory, not so good on the real world tarmac. As a result, the chances of finding an aftermarket HICAS lock out bar on any Nissan equipped with this controversial technology is almost guaranteed.
Yet even with a HICAS lock out bar installed, does your car still feel a little sloppy around corners and isn’t hugging the ground as if it were on rails?
Hang on, wasn’t that the whole point of the HICAS lock out bar???
There’s still a high chance your HICAS system is playing up even with an installed HICAS lock bar as unfortunately it still relies on the factory HICAS components installed to keep things in place.
These components are:
1. The ball joints on either side that attach to the tie rod ends
2. The tie rod ends themselves
3. The tie rods
4. Lastly, the lock bar itself (if not mounted correctly)
All these things contribute to a bad Nissan experience and we don’t want that, so enough of the blabber let’s get to it!
- Jack stands & jack
- WD40 (optional)
- 15mm, 17 mm Socket & Wrench
- Ball Joint Remover
- Angle Grinder & Cutting Disc
- Gloves, Safety Goggles & Ear Muffs
Duration: 120 minutes
Prerequisite: Installed a HICAS Lock out bar
Profanity Level: High
Jack up your trophy car, and make sure those jack stands are even and secure. I prefer to jack it up from the rear diff as it is quite strong then remove wheels.
Remove your HICAS Lock Bar and Tie Rod Ends from the subframe and rear uprights.
List your HICAS Lock Bar, Tie Rods & Tie Rod ends on either Facebook car groups OR eBay.
Consume a beer or maybe two, as you’ll need it! (please keep under the legal limit so you don’t get drunk and hurt yourself)
Using your angle grinder with the appropriate cutting disc, chop off the exposed bits of the ball joint completely. Make sure it’s cut right up to the upright or else you’ll struggle pressing it out. Repeat for both sides
Remove the strut, by undoing the 17mm bolt. We need to remove this so there’s enough room for the ball joint remover to work.
Setup ball joint remover with the correct cup so that you’re pushing the remainder of the ball joint towards the front of the car.
Work it baby! It’s going to be super tough wrenching it. I needed to use a 1 metre extension bar on my trusty Sidchrome ratchet – I suggest you use a breaker bar if your ratchet isn’t that strong.
Clean the insides of where the ball joint once lived.
Press in rubber bushing using G-Clamp & Wood. Please apply WD40 so it doesn’t snag.
Fit eliminator ends to subframe, followed by toe arms then to where the new bush lives.
Check, then tighten all bolts.
Reassemble the shock, then you’re pretty much done.
Fit wheels, then get a wheel alignment!
So there you have it, no more HICAS lock bar, no more HICAS ball joints going loose and no more wobbly HICAS toe rods – because we all know a band aid solution is just a band aid solution. Tell us what you think, comment below!