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Home // The Garage // DIY: Walbro 460L E85 Fuel Pump Install/Upgrade on a Nissan Skyline R33

DIY: Walbro 460L E85 Fuel Pump Install/Upgrade on a Nissan Skyline R33

Ever pushed your car with a fresh tune and wondering why it’s keeps leaning out on hard throttle transitions? It could be that you’re running an aging fuel pump and it’s simply not keeping up with your car’s new fuel requirements. When you really think about it though, the factory fuel pump is probably nearly at it’s end of life considering it’s over 10 years old!

R33 Fuel Pump-2

It’s had a good life and run for it’s money, time to retire it and replace it with something more efficient and new!

Parts Required:

  • Fuel Pump (Walbro F9000267 by TI Automotive)
  • 0.5m E85 Compatible submersible fuel hose (optional)
  • Chemical proof heat shrinks
  • 1x 2” inch hose clamps
  • 4x 10mm hose clamps

R33 Fuel Pump-1


  • 6mm & 10mm socket & ratchet OR spanner
  • Medium sized flat head screw driver
  • Medium pliers
  • Side cutters
  • Wire strippers
  • Soldering Iron & solder
  • A bucket (optional)

Duration: 60 minutes
Difficulty: Low to Medium
Profanity Level: High!

Step 1:
Open the fuel cap to relieve pressure from the fuel tank.

 Step 2:
Remove the rear trim covering the battery, fuse & relay section.

R33 Fuel Pump-3

R33 Fuel Pump-4

 Step 3:
Remove anything obstructing the fuel tank access, in this case my audio equipment.

R33 Fuel Pump-5

 Step 4:
Remove 4x 10mm access bolts to the fuel tank’s lid and disconnect the fuel pump and fuel level sensor gauge connectors.

R33 Fuel Pump-6

R33 Fuel Pump-7

 Step 5:
Using your hands, undo the locking ring of the fuel tank and fuel pump cradle lid. This is where it can be tricky and may cause injury to knuckles. The locking ring can be undone by turning it anti-clockwise.

 Step 6:
Disconnect the fuel level sensor connector and slide out the entire fuel pump assembly. It will be attached to the wall of the fuel tank in a slot. You can easily feel for it on the slope side of the fuel tank.

R33 Fuel Pump-15

R33 Fuel Pump-9

 Step 7:
Remove old fuel pump by disconnecting the wires and hose clamps. You will notice the fuel pump isn’t really attached to anything and sits in place by the placement and the hose at the top.

R33 Fuel Pump-10

R33 Fuel Pump-11

R33 Fuel Pump-12

 Step 8 (Optional):
Replace the existing hoses with E85 compatible fuel hose, make sure they are the same length as the factory hoses or else you won’t be able to fit the fuel pump assembly back into the fuel tank.

 Step 9:
Fit new fuel pump in place, you will notice that the fuel pump will not be seated properly on the cradle. Using a hose clamp, centre the fuel pump and secure using the hose clamp. At the same time, replace all spring type hose clamps with the worm drive ones.

R33 Fuel Pump-13

 Step 10:
Cut wires and heat shrinks and attach to the fuel pump’s connector.

R33 Fuel Pump-14

 Step 11:
Re-install fuel pump, connectors and fuel tank lid. A trick is to grease up the seal as it makes fitting it heaps easier.

R33 Fuel Pump-8

Wasn’t that hard was it? Just a side note, if you’re installing a current hungry fuel pump I suggest the fuel pump be wired using a relay directly to the battery. The stock wiring and fuel pump controller cannot cope with the new current draw resulting in a drop in voltage causing lack of performance and further issues.

About Johnny

A typical car nutter that likes to get his hands dirty. Skyline and Silvia fanatic not to mention trak-life's own personal tuner and mechanic. Doesn't mind sparing a few days at the gym to stay fit and definitely likes to eat to keep the balance right.

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  1. Great write up guys, thought it would be heaps harder but it seems easy enough. Will give it a crack!

  2. Hi Jay! Can you recall what the size of the fuel hose you bought was? I’m ordering the same pump as you and going to get ready for E85 in the future.


  3. This is a great how to guide, But can I ask where you got the chemical proof heat shrinks ?

  4. I have the same question. It seems really hard to track down chemical proof heat shrinks or connectors. What brand and where/what website did you buy from?


  5. Thanks heaps!!

  6. For anyone wanting to do this, here’s a few random tips from my experience today.

    – On the original Nissan wiring to the pump, red is positive, red with stripe is negative
    – You may have to butcher the bottom rubber pad thing on the pump bracket to get it to fit snug
    – Do this when you have only a little amount of fuel. its much easier when you aren’t sloshing through petrol.
    – On that, get some chemical proof long gloves (I got mine under $10 from ebay) and voila; no petrol on skin
    – Allow a full day if you are doing it properly and making a relay for it
    – If you have money, consider paying someone else to do it: its a back breaking SOB!

  7. Please tell me your engine is turbo or non turbo type

  8. You have to be careful with the methanol resistant rubber hose as far as its bend radius goes, I’ve had it split in my 2002 model Holden Commodore when it was submersed in E10 fuel for a couple of years,the solution is to install it as straight as possible.

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